TEAM3SIX
Art with an Attitude!
team3six tutorial guide
I put this together a couple of years ago so its a little dated, but it still hold true for the begginer getting into painting, enjoy.
am going to take you through a step by step on an airbrush painting process. This will hopefully help others to understand what it takes to go through the steps of Airbrushing and why it costs so much. This will also take you through a understanding of the time involved. The hope is that those who are encouraged to learn will make a step toward getting better, Afterall it is part of RC.
Well, here we go.
The project I have choosen to do is a 1/8th scale Xray Buggy ($19.99), Since this is a somewhat simple body to work with it should be easy to manuver a pen on as well as manuver a blade on. I settled for a middle of the road approach to make it easy to understand.
The first plan was to come up with a design. There are lots of idea's that you can get from the internet to encourage you. I figured I would start with my own design and work from there. I usually start on the PAINT program that comes with any Microsoft computer, it allows me to make bends, draw circles and make lines and it's FREE!. The first pic below is what I came up with. I cut the image out and mask taped the image inside where I wanted it. lightly place the masking as to not leave an adhesive residue behind when your finished drawing out the design on the body.
Second was to add the flair. well since this is an Xray, the logo design should be proudly displayed. Alot of people opt for the use of decals, but I find the permanent design adds a better look than just the stock decal. Just take the decal and cut it out and trace out your pattern or scan the image you are using and print it out, easy as that! For beginers, Just take your time, dont rush progress because though you are eager to finish and see what it looks like, you wont be happy with something all mangled looking in the end. RC bodies are a bit expensive, ya know!?
Next I keep a file of different graphics and used some stars to add to the body, again carefully taping the image on and copying the designs where I wanted them.
Next come's the part that most do not have the patience for and thats OK, it comes a little easy for me since I have a drawing background. You may be able to see that even sometimes I have a little problem with it. freehanding a design is generally the best way to go. Why? Well because you can use the natural bends of the body and make your design become incorperated with then body. I find using a fine tip sharpie for all my drawing is best. This body comes with a paint protector skin so it isnt going to be on the body when your done, but even bodies with out that protector is easy to draw on and remove the ink when finished. nothing a little Testor's thinner on a rag can not fix. but DON'T use thinner on the protector because you will have either a bleed through of ink onto the body that wont come off, or a little extra plastic as part of your new shell.
You may end up being a little upset from time to time on the design and want to redraw it, Which is fine! Something that is great to erase the image you drew is that you have a natural oil in your skin, and your hands are covered in it. A little finger rub and you can remove that messed up line and start over. Now be carefull where your hands touch, if you have an image you already added and don't want to lose it, dont get your greasy hands on that image.
Sometimes you may forgot the most crucial adjustments to preping a body to paint. When you lay out your design a line of sight across the body top is a great tool to have. This allows you to adjust your picture so as to place it even on the body. Now it's OK to be a little off kilter, But not to the point that it is noticable. I have attached a picture to show this proceedure and I highly recomend it.
As I said before using the oils on your finger tips works great, But sometimes a little more effort is needed to remove the ink. If that is the case try using Scott paper towel for the removal of the harder to remove patterns. It is soft enough not to rip through the protective film and hard enough to remove the ink. I did so as I had alot of repairs to make, but no biggy as it is turning out great. I use this paper towel method as well for changes, Sometimes you will free hand a design and it doesnt look as you thought it would so a little rub here and there and you make your changes.
Freehand drawing is kinda hard even for me having the art talent. I find it best to imagine smooth curvy lines and sharp crisp edges that flow with the body. remember that in the light you can see the natural design of the body and that is what your looking for when you lay out the lines. add a little cut here or a circle there and you have something that stands outside the box. The thing with painting is you also have to imagine what you want it to look like in your mind. Dont go too crazy with design, because you dont want to over crowd the body and then it just becomes ugly or too busy. I am guilty of this from when I first started painting.
Use instruments in your home for circles, edges, ect. but dont get too nuts. You will have to cut this out later with the exacto knife so keep that in mind. I find a fat marker cap or a paper envelope are great tools to get the lines and curves you want. or you can print the design and tape them inside for referance.
Another custom that works for me alot is when you lay out the design. Instead of drawing it out, dot it out. this way you can just connect the dots which more people can do over just drawing a design.
Freehand drawing is kinda hard even for me having the art talent. I find it best to imagine smooth curvy lines and sharp crisp edges that flow with the body. remember that in the light you can see the natural design of the body and that is what your looking for when you lay out the lines. add a little cut here or a circle there and you have something that stands outside the box. The thing with painting is you also have to imagine what you want it to look like in your mind. Dont go too crazy with design, because you dont want to over crowd the body and then it just becomes ugly or too busy. I am guilty of this from when I first started painting.
Use instruments in your home for circles, edges, ect. but dont get too nuts. You will have to cut this out later with the exacto knife so keep that in mind. I find a fat marker cap or a paper envelope are great tools to get the lines and curves you want. or you can print the design and tape them inside for referance.
Another custom that works for me alot is when you lay out the design. Instead of drawing it out, dot it out. this way you can just connect the dots which more people can do over just drawing a design.
Once you have finished your outline check it over to make sure this is what you want or that you didnt miss anything, You want to make sure because say if you are doing trim lines, you would hate to think that the line was there and peal it up only to find out you fortgot the extra line. A bit of patience will proove to be a nice looking body. I finished off the back end with an unmatched design, I figure I would go along with the curves the body had and make it something a bit different. But after I finished the outline, the front didnt quite look right. The curves were a bit too oblonged. So I erased the original lines in a few places and matched the curves of the rest of the body. Now this will be a little challenge with an exacto, but again if there is patience the cuts should prove to be great.
I want to add that if this was a custom job for a pertiqular customer , this project may have very well taken longer than it took for me to do for this tutorial. the reason being is when customer wants something, it is what the customer wants. it's my job to do the best I can to accomplish that goal and a happy customer spreads the word. This is so far the part that people do not realize is involving. Prep takes about 80% of the project time.
I want to add that if this was a custom job for a pertiqular customer , this project may have very well taken longer than it took for me to do for this tutorial. the reason being is when customer wants something, it is what the customer wants. it's my job to do the best I can to accomplish that goal and a happy customer spreads the word. This is so far the part that people do not realize is involving. Prep takes about 80% of the project time.
Now begin's the prep work that gets a little timely, First I start out washing the inside of the RC body. use a little warmer than luke warm water and a quality dishwashing soap like DAWN, you want to stay away from the fragrant soaps. I prefer to use my hands and fingertips because you can feel for the areas your cleaning, Dont worry about the oils from your hands as your hands are in dishsoap. make sure that you run your fingertips and hands all over every crook and cranny of the inside of the shell, you dont want to have an area with body oils that stuck to the shell or anything that may cause the paint not to bond to the lexan. After your done washing it, use the SCOTT Brand towels again and dry the outside by dabbing against the shell so you wont disturb the design layout, The dry the inside and feel free to wipe away as if you use the SCOTT brand towels you will do a great job at roughing the shell a little and you wont have to fear lint residue on the lexan. Cheap paper towels will leave lint guarenteed, you dont want that! Make sure once again to get all the water on the inside and outside. and then set it down with the open end up for about 5 or 10 minutes on a cloth or something that wont remove your drawing. Once that is dry its time for the masking process.
before we begin the masking, I want to remind you of the oils in your hands, Do NOT at all costs touch the body on the inside now. It is important that this sticks in your head. A little oil and you will be the proud owner of all the effort and struggle of a $60+ paintjob and body.
I like to use Parma's liqued mask, allthough there are several on the market and they are all pretty good. I have seen many practices for laying on the mask. I would like to think that my way is best because even though it takes awhile, I am sure that I am evenly covered all over my work area. Testor's carries a set of brushes used for painting models which includes a great thick brush that you can reley on to not leave behind a bristle or two. They come in a three pack and I like to use thier long soft brush to paint the mask on.
Do this in strides, just dip your brush and start painting. I usually pick a spot and start painting a 2" by 2" area at a time. To get a good mask, be sure to paint the masking on thick enough to cover and thin enough to dry. You dont want a streak or glob because when it dries, the top layer will dry and what is under the skin will not. Do this all over the inside of the body and yes it will be time consuming, but if you want a good paint job this is nessesary.
Now when it comes to the side's, I mostly will do the whole underside, but sometimes there is parts of the lexan that does'nt matter, and on the buggy body there is alot of wasted material. so mask off about an inch past the area that is waste. I like to make a solid line of masking so when I peal it all off there is nothing left on the edges.
From there your body should have its first coat of masking, yes I did say first! this is a process as I said and it takes time for your prep on this project. I figure about an hour between every mask for dry time. So close the lid on your bottle of mask, go clean you brush in some luke warm water without soap. Make sure its clean and set it aside to dry. Now I have a dry area set up. this is where I have a fan up so when I do paint the body it sits in a trap I made and holds the body still while I have a fan blowing on it, Be sure that whatever fan you use is free of dust, You dont want that stuff on your project. I generally set the fan on low and about 2 feet from the body so its blowing right into the shell. When the body is ready for the next coat, the skin should be pretty much transparent, you should see NO blueness.
I like to use Parma's liqued mask, allthough there are several on the market and they are all pretty good. I have seen many practices for laying on the mask. I would like to think that my way is best because even though it takes awhile, I am sure that I am evenly covered all over my work area. Testor's carries a set of brushes used for painting models which includes a great thick brush that you can reley on to not leave behind a bristle or two. They come in a three pack and I like to use thier long soft brush to paint the mask on.
Do this in strides, just dip your brush and start painting. I usually pick a spot and start painting a 2" by 2" area at a time. To get a good mask, be sure to paint the masking on thick enough to cover and thin enough to dry. You dont want a streak or glob because when it dries, the top layer will dry and what is under the skin will not. Do this all over the inside of the body and yes it will be time consuming, but if you want a good paint job this is nessesary.
Now when it comes to the side's, I mostly will do the whole underside, but sometimes there is parts of the lexan that does'nt matter, and on the buggy body there is alot of wasted material. so mask off about an inch past the area that is waste. I like to make a solid line of masking so when I peal it all off there is nothing left on the edges.
From there your body should have its first coat of masking, yes I did say first! this is a process as I said and it takes time for your prep on this project. I figure about an hour between every mask for dry time. So close the lid on your bottle of mask, go clean you brush in some luke warm water without soap. Make sure its clean and set it aside to dry. Now I have a dry area set up. this is where I have a fan up so when I do paint the body it sits in a trap I made and holds the body still while I have a fan blowing on it, Be sure that whatever fan you use is free of dust, You dont want that stuff on your project. I generally set the fan on low and about 2 feet from the body so its blowing right into the shell. When the body is ready for the next coat, the skin should be pretty much transparent, you should see NO blueness.
As I said this takes time. For those of you who have never used liqued masking, For starters it smells like foot , so after you get some on your hands you might want to wash them after your done masking a layer. The second thing is liqued mask goes on wet and if you dont work with it quick enough it will turn gummy. It should'nt be a problem since you are working with 2 x 2 inch areas at a time, that and it dries after the first coat a bit faster, you might over cover an area if you go out of the graph your trying to follow. not that this is a bad thing, but too much mask is a pain to cut and work with. I just finished the second coat and another hour and it will be ready for the third coat. This should be all you will need to do. But depending on the area's and how well you covered, a fourth final coat may be needed. It is a disgression of choice that only you can make. Not that a fourth coat will be harder to cut! if anything it will make it easier for you to peal up.
OK, the final coat of mask has been applied. The next steps coming up will be part of the prep. This work and will involve an Exacto knife which can be purchased in any hardware store, fabric store or hobby shop, and a set of #11 blades. For the next step you will need not one #11 exacto blade, But several. The reason for this is even though the blades are rather strong the tip is only so good for so long. You want to be able to cut nice steady lines applying a slight amount of pressure but not so much as to cut through the lexan, that and when you are using a good tipped blade you are sure to connect the cuts on sharp corners and not cause tearing. Remember, you dont have to apply a great deal of pressure, this is just a rubbery coat that is on the lexan. Think of it as this....Remember when you were a kid and you got glue on your finger tips. well when it dryed it was almost the same viscosity only this is 3-4 times as thick.
OK, now the trick for me that always works is much like a glass cutter in certain light you can see the lines you are cutting. I find a nice comfortable sitting area and face my shell towards the window in the daylight or a really good light with a natural light bulb. I find it much nicer to see the cuts and in some of the pictures you will see that fine line along my drawn lines if you look close enough. Also on curves and hard to get edges, I find it easier to go as slow as possible and pace the cut, curves are hard to cut. Take your time adjust the possition of the shell for what is comfortable to use and go ahead.
Windows and lights are the hardest thing, generally because the mold of the body. I find a steady hand and patience is the only way to get a nice cut. Honestly, It is not the easiest thing in the prep work to do. All of us painters have a hard time doing this and for sure this is timely work to get it right.
OK, now the trick for me that always works is much like a glass cutter in certain light you can see the lines you are cutting. I find a nice comfortable sitting area and face my shell towards the window in the daylight or a really good light with a natural light bulb. I find it much nicer to see the cuts and in some of the pictures you will see that fine line along my drawn lines if you look close enough. Also on curves and hard to get edges, I find it easier to go as slow as possible and pace the cut, curves are hard to cut. Take your time adjust the possition of the shell for what is comfortable to use and go ahead.
Windows and lights are the hardest thing, generally because the mold of the body. I find a steady hand and patience is the only way to get a nice cut. Honestly, It is not the easiest thing in the prep work to do. All of us painters have a hard time doing this and for sure this is timely work to get it right.
Now the next step after you have made your cuts is deciding what is getting the darker color first. This is always your first thought. Why? because paint that is brighter doesnt look as bright when you back a little or all of it with a dark color. Think backwards when you plan your paint job so that the project will come out the way you intend it to be.
Now again here we are with the oils in your hands. It is not a good idea to get your hands on that bare lexan. A little oil and youll be eating a paint job or learning how to do a marble look.
If you happen to have a pair of good tweezers with a nice sharp edge, this will help! Take your exacto knife and find a nice area to start. be certain of what you want to remove and what you dont otherwise it is back to more coats of masking or a repair job with masking tape. Slowly remove your mask and when you are coming to sharp edges use the pull back method. Pull the skin away from the edge you have cut. because all though you feel you may have got that cut right on. Sometimes you dont. I cant stress enough to make sure on connecting cuts that your cuts pass eachother just a tiny bit. You can easily make the mistake of not connecting and when you pull the mask up, you end up pulling something you didnt want to, also make sure that if you are doing a circle or a line that you had to stop half way through, that you continued off that same cut or matched back up with that cut, Its very easy to make the mistake of overlapping cuts.
Dont take too much mask with you, choose an acceptable amount that you can handle without compromising the rest of your design. if you tend to pull too much, take your exacto and cut a seperation across the lifted skin. Dont cut on the body! even though most of the time paint will fill the cut, its not a good idea to risk it.
Now if you happen to remove some skin from an area you didnt want to. Take the blunt end of your knife and tap it down if it remains up and repairable, Or take your mask and paint it a three step process over the effected area, this way you can just recut it and remove the waste masking. Or use Parma's yellow masking tape and tear off a piece and place over the messed up area, use the blunt end of your exacto knife and rub it down to make sure you have a tight bond. Now trim it out and pull away the excess.
Now removing the mask is called weeding, you are weeding the mask for the area to be painted.
Now again here we are with the oils in your hands. It is not a good idea to get your hands on that bare lexan. A little oil and youll be eating a paint job or learning how to do a marble look.
If you happen to have a pair of good tweezers with a nice sharp edge, this will help! Take your exacto knife and find a nice area to start. be certain of what you want to remove and what you dont otherwise it is back to more coats of masking or a repair job with masking tape. Slowly remove your mask and when you are coming to sharp edges use the pull back method. Pull the skin away from the edge you have cut. because all though you feel you may have got that cut right on. Sometimes you dont. I cant stress enough to make sure on connecting cuts that your cuts pass eachother just a tiny bit. You can easily make the mistake of not connecting and when you pull the mask up, you end up pulling something you didnt want to, also make sure that if you are doing a circle or a line that you had to stop half way through, that you continued off that same cut or matched back up with that cut, Its very easy to make the mistake of overlapping cuts.
Dont take too much mask with you, choose an acceptable amount that you can handle without compromising the rest of your design. if you tend to pull too much, take your exacto and cut a seperation across the lifted skin. Dont cut on the body! even though most of the time paint will fill the cut, its not a good idea to risk it.
Now if you happen to remove some skin from an area you didnt want to. Take the blunt end of your knife and tap it down if it remains up and repairable, Or take your mask and paint it a three step process over the effected area, this way you can just recut it and remove the waste masking. Or use Parma's yellow masking tape and tear off a piece and place over the messed up area, use the blunt end of your exacto knife and rub it down to make sure you have a tight bond. Now trim it out and pull away the excess.
Now removing the mask is called weeding, you are weeding the mask for the area to be painted.
Now time for the equpment you'll need to paint your shell
For starters the air compressor I was using in this project was a Zhipp 1/5 Hp compressor which is alright for the begginer, but you can find in most hardware stores the 2 gallon or pancake compessors that come with a air tool for around $99.00 (+) or (-) which will last much longer and be more efficiant for these types of projects, Most of them come with an adjustable regulator and pressure guage already built in (Pictured). The Zhipp model used in this project has a Single cylinder piston which is internally oiled so I have no need to maintain the cylinder. Maximum P.S.I. is 100 but 60 P.S.I is all that should be needed for any project like this with this type of compressor. You should be aware that this compressor does not have a tank to maintain the pressure, So you will want to paint in small steps, when the compressor needs to settle down and cool off, no problem just allow it to do so and move on.
This pertiqular compressor has a Regulator and a moisture trap. If you dont have one, I suggest that you get one so you can make sure you are at the regulated P.S.I. and that the moisture traps job is to take the water out of the air so it doesnt add to the already watered down paint.
The guage reflects the nessary pressure of the air tool
the moisture trap comes with a nut to adjust for pressure as well as a release needle to release pressure and water.
I also am using a double action Richpen gravity feed airbrush. I can adjust the flow as well as the spray so I can do small detailed work and large paint area's. A rattle can for large cover area's can be a good method to use if you dont have an airbrush capable of doing large cover area's you also wont have to make my brush work so hard using a compressor like this. The airbrush is called a gravity feed which allows the paint to flow to the blow point rather than syphering it out of a bottle. During this lesson i will try and provide some paint tutorials, I suggest for a better learning experaince you should visit cfxpaintworks.com and follow the project CFX here http://www.cfxpaintworks.com/module...viewtopic&t=579.
This will teach you the in's and out's of painting with a great understanding.
For the job you should have a good varity of paints to use as well as rattle can paints. I also carry glitter paint for different jobs that I now paint with a brush rather than the airbrush because the flakes tend to gum up the airbrush and make for a really long extensive cleaning process. I generally always use Water based paints such as Parma and Createx, and for the Chrome I use Spaz Stix Chrome in a spray can. Pactra and Spaz Stix also come in bottles, but I choose to not use them because by personal choice I dont like spending lots of time cleaning out my airbrushes, So I stick to the easier to use paints that are a flash to clean in water.
You should also make available a Catch pot, this holds your airbrush when your not using it and also allows you to clear the chamber of any unused paint and clean the gun out to go to your next color. The main job of a catch pot is to keep the paint in a container rather then in the air. I keep a small bottle of water on the side for the cleanout process so I can clean out as much paint as possible before I go to my next color.
Also I would like to stress that your health is important. If at the very last get a filtered paint mask, NOT surgical masks! You can purchase these at Wallmart, Home depot, or any paint store for around $15.00, A small price to pay for your health.
This pertiqular compressor has a Regulator and a moisture trap. If you dont have one, I suggest that you get one so you can make sure you are at the regulated P.S.I. and that the moisture traps job is to take the water out of the air so it doesnt add to the already watered down paint.
The guage reflects the nessary pressure of the air tool
the moisture trap comes with a nut to adjust for pressure as well as a release needle to release pressure and water.
I also am using a double action Richpen gravity feed airbrush. I can adjust the flow as well as the spray so I can do small detailed work and large paint area's. A rattle can for large cover area's can be a good method to use if you dont have an airbrush capable of doing large cover area's you also wont have to make my brush work so hard using a compressor like this. The airbrush is called a gravity feed which allows the paint to flow to the blow point rather than syphering it out of a bottle. During this lesson i will try and provide some paint tutorials, I suggest for a better learning experaince you should visit cfxpaintworks.com and follow the project CFX here http://www.cfxpaintworks.com/module...viewtopic&t=579.
This will teach you the in's and out's of painting with a great understanding.
For the job you should have a good varity of paints to use as well as rattle can paints. I also carry glitter paint for different jobs that I now paint with a brush rather than the airbrush because the flakes tend to gum up the airbrush and make for a really long extensive cleaning process. I generally always use Water based paints such as Parma and Createx, and for the Chrome I use Spaz Stix Chrome in a spray can. Pactra and Spaz Stix also come in bottles, but I choose to not use them because by personal choice I dont like spending lots of time cleaning out my airbrushes, So I stick to the easier to use paints that are a flash to clean in water.
You should also make available a Catch pot, this holds your airbrush when your not using it and also allows you to clear the chamber of any unused paint and clean the gun out to go to your next color. The main job of a catch pot is to keep the paint in a container rather then in the air. I keep a small bottle of water on the side for the cleanout process so I can clean out as much paint as possible before I go to my next color.
Also I would like to stress that your health is important. If at the very last get a filtered paint mask, NOT surgical masks! You can purchase these at Wallmart, Home depot, or any paint store for around $15.00, A small price to pay for your health.
OK, Now removed the first area that will recieve the darker color and in this case I used a can of Pactra Purple to start. I then let it dry and because this is more like a lacquer paint I had to re score some of my lines. No biggy. I wanted this to be somewhat of an easy tutorial so I went with this method to start. When you Score the lines, you dont have to go deep. Just a nice easy score to cut through the paint is all youll need.
OK, Now allot of people choose to water down the paint. Parma says this really isnt nessesary as their paint is specifically made to work with airbrushes. I have mixed paint with Blue Windex in the past and the reason for this is that the alchol in the windex allows the paint to dry faster, It acts as a watering agent to make the paint more easier to work with and for some reason it seems to make certain colors pop!? If you wish to do this, be my guest. I suggest you practice so you can get used to the differance it how it will spray. For mixture purposes, it is best to use 5% Windex to 95% paint so do this in a seperate bottle which can be purchased at hobby shops.
I now remove the first set of stars and I used a floresent green to fade them. I didnt want them all green. Then I went with the second set of stars and the window frames and sprayed green on those as well. Then the next step was the final star and again I faded a green on them. Now after this is dried. I went with a florecent orange yellow. and I sprayed that color on.
OK, Then after it has dried I finished weeding the rest of the body eccept for the front part which will be in Chrome.
Next I attacked it head on with shading the tips in the front top and rear with a golden orange.
After the orange was dry the next color that was screaming at me was a metallic yellow, I kinda figured it would contrast with the paint job but I was willing to try.
It was looking rather on fire and I just had to press on. So I went with a simple clear red and backed it with several coats till I got the color and depth I wanted. Then the last choice was to mix a purple and clear red together and give the body a once over for lift in the paint.
After the orange was dry the next color that was screaming at me was a metallic yellow, I kinda figured it would contrast with the paint job but I was willing to try.
It was looking rather on fire and I just had to press on. So I went with a simple clear red and backed it with several coats till I got the color and depth I wanted. Then the last choice was to mix a purple and clear red together and give the body a once over for lift in the paint.
Next came the front end. Now that the rest of the body was pretty much finished, I grabbed a can of Spaz Stix Chrome. Now this stuff is great, I was going to go with a white but I prefer to use the Chrome because i believe it gives off a brighter metalic look. I let it set dry and hit it with another coat 15 minutes later.
Now that everything is finished and dry, before I remove the window masks and trim it out I want to protect it. I painted the inside of the entire shell with a white coat and allowed it to dry for about an hour, then I finished off the shell with Rustoleum Specialty Plastic White, Red, or Black paint. I use this because it is a great sealer coat for any type of RC once fully cured, It also drys to the touch in about 15 minutes and then it works great on paint without harming your paint work. I then waited till it was completely dry and peeled off the protective cover to see my finished product.
A little time and some patience and this is what it looks like. For extra learning on airbrushing and techniques there are help pages at cfxpaintworks.com. I highly encourage you all whom want to learn to visit and take some tests. It only helps in the long run.
Trimmed out and ready to go racing.
And now for the Low down
Hours spent:
A combined total of 15 hours
Money spent for project:
Pactra prpl @$ 5.89 1/2 used $2.94
Pactra wht @$ 5.89 1/2 used $2.94
SS Chm @$10.99 1/4 used $2.74
Parma grn @$3.99 .10 used $0.45
Parma red @$3.99 .10 used $0.45
Parma ylw @$3.99 .10 used $0.45
Parma prpl @$3.99 .10 used $0.45
#11 8 pk @$5.99 6 used $0.99
Xray Body XB8 @$19.99
time and equipment $40.00 @ $2.66 an hour
Hours spent:
A combined total of 15 hours
Money spent for project:
Pactra prpl @$ 5.89 1/2 used $2.94
Pactra wht @$ 5.89 1/2 used $2.94
SS Chm @$10.99 1/4 used $2.74
Parma grn @$3.99 .10 used $0.45
Parma red @$3.99 .10 used $0.45
Parma ylw @$3.99 .10 used $0.45
Parma prpl @$3.99 .10 used $0.45
#11 8 pk @$5.99 6 used $0.99
Xray Body XB8 @$19.99
time and equipment $40.00 @ $2.66 an hour
(total: $71.40)
The 911:
85% of RC customers will spend a over $300.00 a year on their RC.
42% of those customers will spend an additional $400.00 to either race or Bling out their RC.
A Custom airbrushed body sells generally for anywhere between $80.00 to $250.00 depending on the design and colors.
72% of potential customers believe an airbrush painter is charging outragous prices.
